Hospitality corporate

In almost a fortnight's stay in Pakistan, the hospitality, reception and warmth has been unbelievable. Sometimes it's been almost unreal. The very fact that it has almost been overwhelming is an indication of the extent to which Pakistanis are going to make Indians feel welcome. This is clearly not just any tour. But is this happening because India are touring after such a long gap? Or because the two governments are desperately keen to ensure that nothing derails the long ride towards peace? Or is it just the big-heartedness of the people?

Imran Khan knows a thing or two about India-Pakistan relations and politics. In one of his many TV appearances over the last few days, Imran said, "I remember the reception when we went to India after a gap of 20 years. Everywhere we went we were welcomed with open arms. People on the street, big industrialists, film stars, they all welcomed us into their homes."

It is much the same if you are an Indian in Pakistan at the moment. Harpal Singh Bedi, a reporter with the United News of India, has been our ticket to free tea, ice-creams, and even meals. His turban and flowing white beard immediately identify him as a Sikh, and an Indian. With most of this series being played in the Punjab, the language of choice is Punjabi. Every day people walk up to us and tell us of ancestral properties or roots in India. We are bombarded with questions about Bollywood actors, actresses and singers. We're shepherded into tea-stalls, restaurants and juice-bars. Each time our attempts to pay for what was eaten or drunk was treated as an insult.

The newspapers are so full of people talking about how happy they are to be in Pakistan that it is easy to get carried away and forget that India and Pakistan have been close to war for years now. Sure, everyone wants peace, everyone wants more trade between the two nations and mutual benefits. But what about those people who have lost a father, a husband, a brother or a son in the bitter skirmishes and mini-battles on the border? Are they also basking in the warmth of this new-found brotherhood and love?

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That the people from the two countries are the same is worth mentioning. But it is not something to be surprised about. After all, the two countries were one a little more than 50 years ago. The simple act of drawing a line, or creating a separate state, cannot change people's basic nature. In fact, one thing that young people tell you here is that they're tired of the indoctrination that India is the enemy. Children are constantly told exaggerated stories about "those nasty Indians".

It's March 23, Pakistan Day. On this day in 1940, the Lahore Resolution was moved by the Muslim League's AK Fazalur Haq Choudhary, to create a separate Muslim state. This resolution sowed the seeds of Partition. The day is celebrated with gusto in the newspapers and on TV. There's much tub-thumping about national pride - but enemy-bashing is conspicuous by its absence.

After all, the enemy is now in the house. Not just 15 cricketers and 100-odd journalists, but close to 4000 fans. When you walk out on the streets, and go to Liberty or Gulberg, the upmarket shopping and entertainment areas in Lahore, you're greeted by face-painted, Indian replica-shirt-wearing gaggles of people. And the match isn't till tomorrow. These Indian fans are looked at with amusement - for it would have been unthinkable a few years ago that groups of Indian tourists would throng Lahore and wear the Indian colours so openly.

Rahul Banerji, a reporter from the Asian Age, was here in Pakistan seven years ago. On that trip, he took an autorickshaw from the Liberty shopping centre to the Gaddafi Stadium. Towards the end of the journey, the driver stopped the autorickshaw, and turned around. "[Expletive deleted]! Mere gaadi main dushman bhaita hai." ("Damn! I have the enemy in my vehicle.")

Banerji admits that was the only time he was referred to as the enemy on that trip, and eventually persuaded Salim, the reluctant driver, to have a picture of the two taken together. That this undercurrent exists is undeniable, and to deny it would be like the ostrich burying its head in the sand.

As Bedi, Banerji and myself get out of yet another autorickshaw, we see the slogan plastered on the back. "Be a proud Pakistani. Boycott Indian goods." It's still not all love and bonding in Pakistan.